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Dewalt router SuperPID conversion

DeWALT D26204K/DWP611
SuperPID conversion

This brief is about converting the DeWALT router to be controlled by the SuperPID closed loop speed controller. These instructions are for the D26204K bought in Australia. I believe that this is the 240V equivalent of the DWP611 sold in the American market but cannot be sure.
As always, this process will definitely void your warranty and we are dealing with potentially lethal voltage levels. If you are not qualified to perform this procedure safely, do not do it yourself. End disclaimer.

Version history

Date - version       Author             Comment

29/12/2013 v1.0   Adam David     Initial creation
31/12/2013 v1.1   Adam David     Added check spindle view and glue sensor cable

Overview

Conversion is quite easy. We are going to bypass the control electronics whilst keeping the power feed to the illumination LEDs.
The router needs to be dissembled quite a lot for the conversion. The following pictures identify the parts when you lift the lid.



The wiring on first inspection look quite complicated but are quite straight forward.
There is a PCB hidden under the plastic carrier and wires. The PCB contains a circuit to supply the LED illumination. The actual motor speed control is performed by a module containing a thyristor and other control electronics. This module cannot be disassembled. There are two motor noise suppression devices. A large yellow capacitor located in a slot next to the power lead and a small device covered in heat-shrink, also next to the power lead. This device contains a high frequency capacitor and an inductor. The yellow plastic body holds the stator windings that are separated into two separate windings. Electrically, the stator windings and armature are all wired in series with the current fed on the active side by the thyristor module.



This conversion will leave all of the control electronics in place but remove the power switch. We will drill a hole in the yellow plastic casing behind the power switch and mount the optical shaft rotation sensor in its place.
The top of the armature has a convenient ring above the commutator at just the right height to pick up the shaft rotation when painted white on one side.



We are going to replace the two core power lead supplied with a three core power lead. Live and neutral will continue to be connected to the existing electronics to power the LED illumination and we will connect the third wire (I used the earth wire) from the SuperPID to the thyristor feed to windings.

Conversion instructions


1. Unscrew the power lead retaining bracket and release the yellow capacitor and high frequency noise suppressor.
2. Remove the thyristor feed to the windings.
3. Disconnect the connections to the brushes on both sides and remove the brushes. The brushes are secured to the body by a single screw.
4. Disconnect the LED connector.
5. Release the power switch from the body.
6. Disconnect the yellow live feed from switch and the blue neutral feed from the PCB screw terminals. Separate the power lead and switch from the body.
7. Lift the control electronics away from the body.



8. Remove the retaining screw from the under-side of the housing.
9. Lift the yellow plastic housing from the aluminium body. Take care to feed the LED wire through its hole. There are two pry slots between the plastic housing and the aluminium body to start lifting the housing.



10. The stator housing once removed can be modified to insert the plastic tube for the optical rotation sensor. Before this can be done, the supporting ribs for the switch needs to be removed. This can be done by grinding them out with a Dremel.



11. Drill a 9.5mm hole horizontally through the housing. The centre of the hole is 21.5mm from the top of the housing. Please check this measurement yourself.
12. Paint half of the ring above the commutator with white paint. On this router model, this ring is already painted matt black and should not require painting black. After re-assembling the contrast will need to be checked. This is covered in a later step.



13. Reassemble the plastic housing and insert the plastic tube. Check that the tube aligns with the centre of the ring above the commutator. Glue tube in place.
14. Insert the sensor into the tube. Some tape around the sensor helps to centre the probe in the tube. Green in photograph.
15. Check the SuperPID registers the black white transition as the rotor is turned. This is done with the SuperPID in spindle view mode as shown below.



16. A slot cut half way through the tube is an easy way to secure the sensor with a cable tie. The sensor needs a small blob of glue such as silicon to stop it moving under prolonged vibration. Only a very small quantity is required to stop it moving and still be able to remove the sensor from the tube if required.
17. Replace the electronics as shown below.



18. Connect the motor active to the wire previously connected to the lower connector on the thyristor module.



19. Connect the neutral wire to the PCB screw terminal.
20. Connect permanent live to the yellow wire. This powers the LEDs.
21. Replace the top

Now fire it up and check it all works and happy routing.

Adam David.


Ċ
Adam David,
Jan 25, 2014, 4:50 AM
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